Upgrading PV mounts

The time finally came to upgrade the solar module mount from our previous wooden test frame to something more sturdy.

While there appear to be tons of solar mounting hardware available, the simplest thing to come to mind was perforated angle framing. It would be very sturdy, long lasting, cheap, available and allow for adjust ability in the angle of the panels.

In the winter, in the Chicago area, the sun is at around 23 degrees from horizonal and in the summer it is at around 72 (almost overhead).

First, the panels were prepared. Angle framing of around 6 feet was cut and attached to the aluminum frame. Any dissimilar metals cause galvanic corrosion in the "weaker" one. See the galvanic series. This is no different in aluminum and steel. Thankfully, aluminum naturally oxidizes and a thin anti-corrosion film is created. Just in case, we used 18-8 stainless steel (ss) hardware where the mounts go. Where the plain steel angle framing and the aluminum frame from the panels meet, there is a 18-8 ss washer.



The framing that sticks out will be the pivot point. Below you can see the materials prepared. We used regular steel hardware for the framing. 18-8 ss hardware is expensive.

We also got a second panel too! The second one is a 215 Watt Kyocera. That was the closest to the specifications of the other panel that was available. In the picture below, the framing extends from the top of the solar panels. That will be the bottom when mounted on the roof.





Wooden 2x4s are mounted to the roof. There are identically sized 2x4s on the underside of the roof and 4 inch screws that go from one to the other. This gives the panels a very sturdy base.



Angle framing is mounted on top of the 2x4s.





The panels take up the whole tool shed roof.



The next step is to ground the panels, as per NEC (National Electrical Code) requirements. The trick is to remember that simply touching the bolt to the aluminum frame will not give good electrical conduction due to the thin aluminum oxide film. we were lucky that our bolts were slightly wider than the grounding hole so it cut into the frame as it went in. Tooth lock washers also work well as they cut into the aluminum as they are tightened.



All panels have to be grounded.